Monday, January 30, 2017

Not your ordinary busy work

My wife Michelle has been tossing around ideas of how to keep her mind off of my absence while I'm in the States driving a truck; the longest we've been apart in the past 14 years is 10 days, when she toured Europe with her mom and daughter.  She has always had an affinity for painting tiles; the walls of her first pastry shop in Norfolk 17 years ago were adorned with hand-painted tiles she created.  We still have several mirrors framed with tiles she painted during that time.  When we opened our café here in Cuenca we decorated the sides of the counter with tiles she had painted during her last year in Norfolk; I turned down countless offers from customers hoping to purchase all or some of these tiles.  While here we have learned that the plain white ceramic tiles that can be found in great abundance in Lowes or Home Depot, in the typical 4" X 4" size, do not exist here.  Nor do ceramic markers, though that's a problem easily solved by having them muled down from the States.

What are sold here in a plethora of colors and shapes are very small accent or decorative tiles, and can be had for a nice small amount if you know where to look.  Michelle's first idea was to tile portions of wall in our condo, especially around and above where our future electric fireplace is going to be located.  Opposing walls on the other side of the room were also going to feature her tilework.  That idea has been put on temporary hold, giving way to the idea of tiling furniture.  Her first 'test' project was a $15 wooden table purchased at a small market known as the 'Rotary Market.'  

Several weeks later, her table is finished.  There really is not another square centimeter that can accommodate even a single glass bead, which she also used in decorating this table.  Small glass beads in a wide assortment of colors are available at Coral, Ecuador's version of Wally World.  Coral sells motorcycles too however, a market Wal*Mart hasn't explored yet.  Not even in The South.

I thought the table looked great with just the tiles and beads, and then she grouted it.  The finished work is simply amazing.  This table, her first, will no doubt remain with us for the rest of our lives.  If a demand for such work materializes here, this may be the very thing that keeps her busy while I'm gone.  Currently there is nothing in the city that compares to this kind of work, much like there was nothing in the city that compared to her pastries, breads, soups, or salads while Popacuchu Café was in existence.  The closest thing I've seen is a very cheap, very lightweight table at a Pakistani store nearby, with a mass-produced paint job and a $300 sticker.  

Below:  The Table...







Another mountain bike entry

I realize I have already published a page full of photographs taken while riding my bike, but I just cannot help myself... unfortunately the pics don't really do the landscape justice.  The effort in getting to this point help may help make the views seem extraordinarily rewarding; it's about a 3500ft climb from start to finish, with very few level spots to relax on.  

That's my bike in the left foreground; the white posts may be there for a future fence, or a previous fence, not sure which.  There's nothing up this high but a few horses, cows, and llamas.

Mountains in the distance are The Cajas.





Biked up two mountains this day; this is from the top of the second mountain.  As you can see, not much grows at this elevation (12000ft) but grass and very small shrubs.






Monday, January 9, 2017

Final excursion before leaving Ecuador: Quilotoa Crater Lake, Riobamba, Guano

Thursday morning I picked up a rental car from Cuenca Car Share cuencacarshare.com, and my wife and I were off to Riobamba.  If you ever are in need of a rental car in Cuenca, this is the company to use; Juan is helpful, friendly, and gives great advice whether on places to stay or eat, or how best to deal with a 'documents check' run by the police.  Now that the rainy season is officially here, we were held up at least an hour due to driving at extremely slow speeds through the Andes Mts.; thick clouds set in, prohibiting seeing further than 10 meters at times.  

We stayed in a fantastic hotel blocks away from the city center, Casa 1881 casa1881.com.  The owner, Santiago, pretty much runs the hotel by himself.  Which is going to run him into the ground eventually, I think.  He's only 29, but has the charm and character of an experienced hotelier.  He greeted my wife by name as she walked in, though having never met her; there weren't that many check-ins Thursday, but he still showed great initiative in familiarizing himself with who was expected.  He spoke perfect English, but has never visited the U.S.  The hotel had previously been a historic house, which he spent two years renovating.  It retained its colonial feel, had 20ft ceilings, vintage furniture and decor, yet modern amenities such as Apple TV and Netflix in the rooms, which he was VERY proud of.  Some of the decorations included a vintage Brownie Bullet Kodak camera, an old short-wave radio, and this piece of pop culture adorning one of the chairs...




That night we walked around the town a bit, happening upon this parade, a version of which occurs every day from Dec. 26 to Jan. 6.  It's all about celebrating the birth of Jesus... 








The following morning we drove a short distance to the town of Guano, which was renown for its artisan rug makers.  Many of the rug makers have found other work, due the import of cheap Chinese rugs rendering them irrelevant.  We were fortunate in that we found a fourth-generation rug maker in the first shop we entered, who, according to him, allegedly made a rug for the Pope, who did visit Ecuador last year.  He proudly showed us a photo of the rug and the blueprint from which he worked.  We were hoping to find someone who could make a Persian-style rug, without having to pay the thousands of dollars a nice Persian rug would normally cost.  Our fourth-generation rug maker make it clear he could not replicate the detail found in Persian rugs, as 1000 thread looms were used to make los rugs, and Ecuadorian rugs typically were 400-count loom.  Our rug was going to be much thicker and softer, however, as he used real wool, and a looser weave, but we were only going to get a life expectancy of approx. 50 years out of the rug.  Which is about all I need.  We placed an order and will return in about six weeks to pick it up.  I'll post an update w/photo of his handiwork.  

Later in the morning we drove to Quilotoa, specifically the Quilotoa Crater Lake, which according to at least one online publication is one of The 15 Most Beautiful Crater Lakes In The World...twistedsifter.com.  We knew it was going to be spectacular, but WOW!  We started hiking around the crater rim, but got turned back by some threatening storm clouds.  The crater lake was formed approx. 800 years ago when after a violent eruption, the Quilotoa volcano collapsed in upon itself.  Pyroclastic flows and lahars from the eruption reached the Pacific, some 110 miles away.  The lake itself is over 820ft deep.  
Presenting... Quilotoa Crater Lake!

hiking around the crater rim

still hiking... loving the cloud formations!

a valley as seen from the trail around the crater

piece of the crater wall

all sorts of greens seen in the water... depending on sun rays reflecting, clouds...



me trying not to get a sunburn on my noggin


The next morning the sky had cleared up a bit, affording us a view of two volcanic mountains in the distance, Illiniza Sur and Illiniza Norte.  Illiniza Sur is the snow-capped peak, as its microclimate contains a greater deal of humidity.  In ancient times the two mountains were one volcano, but eventually split into two (two mountains, not two volcanoes!).  
That's my wife... 

Illiniza Norte (on left) and Illiniza Sur (on right)... in background


On the way outta town, we passed through the village of Zumbahua, where their Saturday market was in full swing.  Having never tried red bananas before (I've read they are delicious), I found some but was told I could not buy a few, only the whole bunch.  Best $2 I ever spent!


Sunday, January 1, 2017

Oh Colorado!


Colorado featured the best scenery I’d ever seen, until I moved to Ecuador.  My Dad’s town of Rifle is very similar to Cuenca in that no matter where you are standing in town, there are mountains surrounding you in all directions.  While there are some exceptions, the mountains are mostly tan or beige, but I think are almost as beautiful in their own right.  


I was fortunate to be able to hike with my sister one day, almost as fortunate as she was to be able to spend the day with me, as we day-hiked to the top of Mt. Sopris in June, which was still covered in [melting] snow, as you can see.

Before we hiked Sopris, we hiked to an awesome spot outside of Glenwood Springs called 'The Hanging Lake.'  It was an easy-moderate hike to a crystal-clear pond, where swimming was strictly forbidden.  It is a beautiful spot and very popular among the locals; the trail was actually crowded in places.

The Hanging Lake



On the hike to Mt. Sopris


That's my sister, Anna Helen!  Holding a green frog, that accidentally got left behind somewhere on the trail.
Still smiling...
Snow in June????
Yep...



These rocks (scree) covering the upper third of Sopris made is extremely unpleasant to walk on.
heading to the summit

at the top
still at the top, different view
beautiful, and cold, on the summit
heading back down, or up, I can't tell

climbing around, looking for the way down

How did we get up here?  How do we get back down?  We completely lost our bearings, and spent about 2 hours trying to figger out how to get back down.... we simply, only, needed to keep going straight.  That's all.  But it was very nerve-racking until we figured that out.  

the face of despair
on the way down from Sopris









nearing the end of the hike


We got off of Sopris with maybe an hour to spare, before a storm moved in.  Rainbow!


buttes on the way to Grand Junction, CO, from Rifle, CO

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My Mom & Dad, sharing a laugh; I think this is my favorite family photo, or at least photo of the two of them, I've ever seen.